History of Tolleshunt Major reveals a distinguished past

Mention Tolleshunt D’Arcy and people will talk to you about 16th Century moated D’Arcy Hall and the D’Arcy family, the D’Arcy Spice russet apple (originating in 1840), and D’Arcy House with not one but two blue plaques.

Tolleshunt Knights is associated with the Orthodox Monastery of St John the Baptist (founded in 1958), old “Bushes” Church, Barn Hall and the ancient devil legend of Sir John Atte Lee, who died in 1370.

But what about Tolleshunt Major?

In common with its sister parishes, the first part of its name derives from “Toll”, a Saxon landowner, and the Old-English “funta” for spring.

The second element is a corruption of “Malger”, the surname of a later, Domesday, under-tenant.

For a time the village was known as Tolleshunt Beckingham, after the 16th Century Lord of the Manor, Stephen Beckingham.

Before he was Lord, it was part of the extensive land holdings of Coggeshall Abbey, but he established his seat at Beckingham Hall (built c.1545), the brick gatehouse and pepper-pot turrets of which survives today.

Aside from Beckingham, there are other documented estates.

The tower of the St Nicholas' Parish Church in Tollshunt Major (Image: Jon Yuill)

Wick’s was named in the 14th Century after John Atte Wykes, owned by Cardinal Wolsey in 1525 and then the D’Arcy family, Bickleigh, after Adam de Bikele (c.1248), Bullocks, from the Bullok family (c.1327), Highams, derived from Robert Higham (c.1427), Joyce’s, from John Joce (c.1398), Long’s, after John Long, (c.1346), and moated Renters, after John Renter, (c.1396), which then became the parsonage.

Then we have Bowstead Bridge, probably associated with Earls Bumste (c.1331), Daymens Hill Farm – “Demamyns” in 1588, Heathgate (1548) – the gate to what we now know as Tiptree Heath, Longwick Farm (1543), Rockleys, which was “Rucklemede” in 1398 and Sawyer’s (1548).

Based on that place-name evidence alone, Tolleshunt Major clearly has a distinguished past.

In terms of physical evidence, aside from the 15 listed buildings, including the remains of Beckingham Hall, there is the parish church of St Nicholas.

Standing in open countryside, the nave and chancel are Norman in origin, with 14th and 15th Century alterations.

Extensive restoration work was undertaken in 1888, to the designs of the vicar-architect Rev Ernest Geldart, including the addition of the south porch.

The massive Tudor brick tower was added by Stephen Beckingham and I am told there are spectacular views from the top, “with the gulls drifting like snow-flakes overhead and the far North Sea glittering to the horizon”, as one author so eloquently put it.

There are unusual canopied brick niches on either side of the nave and the remains of a 15th Century painted figure on the south wall.

Amongst the village forefathers that sleep in this holy place are the Highams - the original Robert Higham (died June 23, 1427) and Letice his wife, Robert Higham the second (died 1429) and his wife, and Robert Higham the third (died 1460) and his wife.

They clearly liked the name Robert and with no thought for the frustrations of future genealogists!

Talking of family research, the burial registers date back to 1589. In the eastern part of the churchyard is a lone Commonwealth War Graves headstone – to 27-year-old farm labourer Willie Redgewell, the son of William and Rhoda Redgewell, of 4 Bridges Row.

Willie served with the Essex Yeomanry and died of wounds at home on July 2, 1917.

Just over six months later, at 11pm on February 17, 1918, 2nd Lieutenant Sydney Armstrong took off on a night patrol in his BE12 biplane from nearby Goldhanger aerodrome.

At 1am the following day, the body of the 18-year-old pilot was discovered in the shell of his burnt-out machine in a field in the village.

The trauma of war continued into the next conflict of 1939-45 when bombs fell at Daymans, Loamy, Primrose Hill and Grove Farms, at The Street and at Wicks Manor.

The Bell in Tollshunt Major (Image: Stephen Nunn)

Nerves were doubtless calmed by a visit to the long-patronised local - the Bell Inn, which is set back from Beckingham Street.

The building, with its bay windows, dormers and brick stacks, is said to have its origins in the 16th Century. Pints have been served in its beamed surroundings since at least the 1820s, when Robert Turpin was behind the bar.

The current hosts offer a warm welcome (to which I can attest) and it has a reputation for being a “great traditional pub”.

With the emphasis on “traditional”, it has seen a rare procession of village folk, of residents from centuries past who were proud to call Tolleshunt Major their home.